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Neil Miller December 23, 2013 Filed Under: #GreyIsWhite, #PowerPlays, #See1See100, #ThinSkinned, Into India, Politics

Why India and the US are in a fight that won’t have a winner

us-embassy-india

The current issue of the Indian diplomat being arrested in the US gives one of the clearest pictures of a cultural clash that doesn’t have a good solution. 

The Basics:

Here are just a few of the skeleton facts in case you haven’t followed along:

An Indian diplomat, Devyani Khobragade, was arrested for visa fraud, essentially because her Indian domestic staff was paid far below the amount stipulated on her visa application.  Ms. Khobragade was handcuffed in public and subjected to a private strip-search by the US law authorities as per their norms.  A later development was that the domestic help’s husband and children were evacuated from India with the help of the US.

What India Thinks:

[Read more…]

Tagged With: devyani khobragade, diplomat row

Neil Miller November 11, 2013 Filed Under: #CustomerIsAlwaysThere, #TimeIsEternal, Daily Living

What India Wants from You

What India wants dgrobinson

Just 5 minutes Madam

Kindly be on line

Can you adjust a little?

You should lower your expectations

It will be just 5 more minutes

Would you like some tea coffee?

It’s better if you do it this way

We are all the same, no?

Forget about yesterday

Can you move a bit more?

Only 5 more minutes

The first quote was not inclusive of these additional charges

Forget about the future

I think you are liking it here, no?

It will be a few more days

Please have a seat

Can you adjust a little more?

Sir, please wait 2 minutes

Let me check on that and get back to you

See, India is a very nice place, yes?

You should lower your standards a little bit

Please give up

It will be just 2 minutes

Anything else I can assist you with?

Oh, and then there is the deposit which you must pay

You are liking Indian food, yes?

More tea coffee?

Just 1 minute…

 

Photo Credit: dgrobinson on Flickr

 

Neil Miller November 6, 2013 Filed Under: #ChaosBeatsLogic, #GreyIsWhite, #TimeIsEternal, Transportation

How To Take 10 Hours to Drive to Bangalore from Chennai

There are no really bad ways and no really great ways to get from Chennai to Bangalore.  Bus, car, train, even plane – all have their benefits and drawbacks.  Faced with one client meeting at noon and another at 3pm and an open weekend ahead of me, I opted to leave in the morning and drive.

Any Indian will tell you with full certainty that it takes exactly 5 hours to drive to Bangalore.  However, I have never actually experienced this in my life and am still not sure it is physically possible.  (Though I now hear myself saying it to others as well.)

Here is my story.  I marked my mistakes with a * and good ideas with a ^.

My original plan was to leave at 6 am, giving myself a good extra hour to reach.  As I told my friends, they continually told me to prepone my departure time to avoid traffic, so I left at 5 am^.   [Read more…]

Neil Miller November 4, 2013 Filed Under: #CustomerIsAlwaysThere, Daily Living

Ineffective Customer Service Strategies

Staff Overkill Customer Service India 

Given the struggle with customer service in many parts of India, it makes you wonder how much is the result of intentional decisions and how much just happens that way.  One can only imagine a fictitious boardroom meeting like this:

Ok, next on the agenda is how to have great customer service.  Any ideas? 

Definitely the most effective approach we can take is to pack the store full of associates who can stare at customers when they come in the store.

Brilliant!  People love being stared at.  What kind of training will these associates need?

Aside from staring, they should be good at memorizing and repeating product specifications that can be easily read off the product itself.  Anything more than that would be overkill.

What if a customer has a specialized question they need answered?

Associates can just repeat the same specifications.

Ok, I like the simplicity of this approach.  What if a VIP comes in the store?

Then we should all be there to greet him/her.  He should meet the General Manager, the Assistant General Manager, the Regional Manager, the Assistant Regional Manager, the VP of Sales, the VP of Operations, and the Regional Sales Head.

Not the Finance Head?

No, he’s not very sociable, so it’s not a good idea.

Ok, now what if the customer has a problem with something?

That’s easy.  We will simply wear them down until they give up.  Everyone gives up eventually.  We will make our systems complex enough and just inefficient enough so that they stay with us, but the entire experience will be enough to make them scream.

That sounds a little harsh.  Won’t they just go to the competition?

No, I’ve arranged it with our competition so that they have the same plan we do.

Ok, great.  But what if they want a refund or their money back?

(Awkward long silence, followed by hilarious laughter)

Hahaha!  Good one, sir!  You had me going there for a second! Yes, of course we will never give cash back for any reason ever.  But seriously, in that case we will give them a voucher to force them to continue shopping only at our store and we will increase the number of people staring at them so that they feel cared for.

Fantastic.  Let’s get to work.

 

 

More on #CustomerIsAlwaysThere

Photo Credit: Rob Greg on Flickr

Neil Miller October 20, 2013 Filed Under: #ChaosBeatsLogic, #GreyIsWhite, #TimeIsEternal, Cultural Adaptation, Daily Living

Survival Skills

Alexander_troops_beg_to_return_home_from_India

I’m going to try to change things around here. 

OR

That’s just the way things are, what can I do?

If you are like most people, these two thoughts tug at you constantly while in India.  One minute you are inspired to make a difference and change something for the better.   The next, you give up because you realize nothing will ever change.  Then you start to see things move in a positive direction.  Then you are struck at how nothing has moved at all.

Two steps forward, two steps back.

At the office, you try to implement strict processes and timelines and yet they seem to inevitably break down and fizzle out over time.

You feel compelled to give some money to the child who comes up to your car, hoping to make a difference in her life, and then later find out she is a part of a gang which keeps her in poverty her entire life.

History is filled with people who have come to India with big dreams and huge change initiatives.  It is also filled with clumps of hair and screams of those who are tasked with implementing them.

Here’s a very brief and over-simplified view of a few key moments in Indian history that might help.

Alexander the Great – At the age of 30, Alexander had already conquered all of Greece, Persia, Babylon, and most of the known world at the time.  His last great dream was to extend his kingdom to what the Greeks considered “the end of the known world” which was northwest India.  After having defeated incredibly powerful armies, Alexander’s own army mutinied somewhere near Punjab and refused to go any further.  Alexander left an officer as a satrap there and soon died without having fully realized his dream of conquering the whole world.

Mughal Empire in India – The Mughals came into India in 1526 through Babur and held large influence in India until the mid 1700s.  They were the complete rulers of the day.   Along with establishing the first empire that spanned most of modern-day Indian and Pakistan, they brought in a new renaissance of architecture and mathematics that the native Indians accepted and used to their own advantage. However, one of the early aims of the Mughals and other Muslim rulers was to see large conversions to Islam.  Try as they might, this was one thing that never happened on a mass scale.  Indians held onto their own beliefs while still participating in the kingdom.

British Raj – In 1858, the rule of the British East India Company was transferred to the Crown of England and so began about 90 years of British rule in the subcontinent.  But the British had been there much earlier, seeking trade and spices and finding a fortune to be made.  Within a very short time, the British had conquered the largest parts of India and had subdued an entire subcontinent.  The British tried their best to convert India into a true bureaucracy, making “modern men” out of Indians, and converting them to Christianity, but that never happened to a large extent.  They remained who they were.

 

How does this relate to the fact that you are visiting the customs officer for the eighth time and trying to figure out if you have to/should give a bribe to the officer to get your stuff from the shipping container?  How does it help you choose between the two thoughts we started with?  What does India want from you? 

To take a page from history, she wants your talent, your brilliance, your insight.  She will take your money, your investments, your ideas, your questions and your doubts and will let them live and breathe and have space here.  You can add to the richness of life in India and augment people’s lives in ways you never knew possible.

The only thing she doesn’t want is for you to try to change her.  That’s where you will bust your head.  In 3,000 years, there have been extremely few cases where an outsider “changed” India as a country, and it is unlikely you are going to be one of those stories.  You can make her better and teach her new skills and help grow her understanding, but if a “culture change” is on your agenda, you are likely to live a short life here.

There is a time to give and a time to give in.

When you should give:

  • When you are dealing with an Indian (individual), not in a crowd
  • When you have a skill to teach like planning and pacing
  • When you see a specific need you can address (like taking care of your maid’s cataract surgery)
  • When you are working under an Indian’s authority and direction
  • When you are participating in an existing movement stated by Indians like asking for a receipt for your “ticket” instead of paying a bribe

When you should give in:

  • When you are dealing with India as a country
  • When a stranger cuts the queue in front of you
  • When someone cuts you off in traffic
  • When you are with the masses
  • When you feel the need to “start something new”, or “teach someone a lesson”.

 

This balance will be the key to your survival in India.  Give and give in.  Which one should you do today?

 

More on Daily Living

Photo Credit: Antonio Tempesta [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons 

Neil Miller October 15, 2013 Filed Under: #IndiasNotIndia, #PowerPlays, Indias By...

Indias By Class: Economic Diversity of India

 

Economic Diversity of India

There are many ways to slice up Indian society.  You can know an Indian’s state, language, religion, community, and many other elements of their identity.

However, you won’t get very far in India until you understand the monumental economic diversity of India. Being able to classify the economic background of someone can often be one of the best ways to know how to interact with them and which rules apply to them.  People from different economic strata lead completely different lives, have completely different experiences, and represent completely different people groups in India.

Talking about these differences takes a certain amount of sensitivity.  In 2002, the Strategic Foresight Group published a report that divides the Indian economy into 3 sections: Business Class economy (2% of the population), Bike economy (15%), and Bullock cart economy (83%).  The report talks about the different states of India and which states represent which economies.

These terms give a useful starting place for understanding this issue, but 1.) Things have changed since 2002, and 2.) These terms work much better for individuals than entire states.

Below are four strata of the Indian economy, using terms that are both immediately understandable and as accurate as possible when you are trying to fit 1.2 billion people into four neat categories.  Unlike other distinctions, these categories are much more about individual mindset than about specific income levels.  In fact, the different groups may overlap each other if seen on a wealth distribution scale.  Most people you know will probably fall in between categories or are moving from one to another.

1.) Majority Indians – These are the 65% of the country (or more), who under the new definitions of the government (Rs. 62 in expenses per day in cities, Rs. 50 in villages) are considered in poverty.  In US dollars, that is surviving on spending $1 per day.  In this category, we’ve made the unfortunate, but conceptually necessary move of lumping together the urban poor and villagers, although their lives can be extremely different.  Upon Majority Indians’ backs India has been built, fed, and housed.

Unfortunately, they tend to blend into the scenery of most of our experiences in India – the slums that become part of the everyday commute, the countless villages you will never visit, the mass of people who form the foundation for the Indian economy.

About this, economist and Nobel laureate Amartya Sen comments:

“There is, for example, nothing false about Indian poverty, nor about the fact – remarkable to others – that Indians have learned to live normal lives while taking little notice of the surrounding misery.” Argumentative Indian, 127.

 

2.) Classic Indians – If an Indian ever tells you they came from a “middle class” family, this is what they are talking about.  Father was a government worker/bank employee.  Mother was a school teacher/homemaker.  They save most of their money, live in joint families, and try to send their son to study engineering.   They can be auto rickshaw drivers all the way to mid-level managers in family owned Indian companies.  As the name says, these people make up the classic version of what most westerners think of when they picture the stereotypical Indian.

3.) New Indians – This is a phenomenon and a class that has emerged over the last 20-30 years.  They work for multinationals or started their own companies in the tech boom of the 1990s.  Their purchasing power has drastically increased compared to their families.  They move around India where their work takes them, but also may have other aspirations of really making it big and working abroad.  These people have family and cousins living and working in Europe, the Gulf, or the US, and can reasonably save up for a visit every few years.  They can also potentially afford to send their children abroad for higher studies if they wish.  This class of Indian is the face of the New India and the one that India wants the world to remember.

Being a New Indian is much more a mindset and a modern phenomenon than an economic class.  There are young graduates making Rs. 15,000 per month who would be in this category as well as dollar millionaires.  Being a New Indian is about adopting a much more “international” lifestyle in terms of taste and preference.  They maintain most of the core Indian values, but have shed at least a few things the Classic Indians hold onto, such as traditional dress, music taste, or spending habits.

4.) Wealthy Indians – These are families who have owned companies and land for generations and have been the barons of their cities and industries for decades.  They can afford to spend as much as they wish and travel frequently.  They buy one of the nearly one hundred Rolls Royces sold every year in India or might settle for one of the 10,000 Audis sold in a year.  They make up their own class because these people have earned not only wealth, but also power and can mostly do what they please.  Politicians, land-owners, heads of companies, their names are well-known and they travel in large and well-defined social circles.

Wealthy Indians might also be international in their views, but their values and behaviours might more closely resemble Classic Indians, such as living in extended families, vegetarianism, and arranging marriages for their children. Their rise to wealth likely happened before the major influx of western culture that began in the 1990s.

 

Wealth Distribution

Wealth distribution is as much a problem in India as in most countries.  However, according to a recent study from Credit Suisse, India has a more equal wealth distribution than Canada, Singapore, the UK, Russia, France, Sweden, Brazil, Switzerland and the US.  Comparing countries of vastly different sizes and cultures around a topic like wealth can be impossible and misleading in some ways, but this report at least shows that it is a global phenomenon and not unique to India.

That said, the disparities between groups are great.  India has more “poor” people than any other country on the planet.  CEOs in India are nearly paid nearly the same as in Europe and the US, but most other workers earn a small fraction of their foreign peers.  In the 1990s, the top 10% of wage earners earned 6 times the bottom 10%.  In 2010, the rich made 12 times more than the poor.

Here is an image from the National Council for Applied Economic Research from their study done in 2010, showing the breakdown of broad economic wealth distribution.

Indian Income Pyramid

Different Rules for Different Classes

As mentioned above, knowing the basic economic category someone comes from is helpful to know what social rules apply to them.  For example, let’s talk about visiting someone’s home:

There is very little chance you will ever visit the home of a Majority Indian (odds are you are probably paying your maid well enough to be considered a Classic Indian).  And it’s not a good idea to visit their home without thinking through the longer term effects that would be put on them for having a rich foreigner visit.  If you get to visit a village home, you would most likely end up meeting the entire village as everyone would come out to meet you.  For gifts, keep things very simple and useful: sweets, fruit, simple toys for children.

If you visit a Classic Indian, you are likely to meet three generations living together in a modest, simple residence.   Remove your shoes before entering and greet everyone simply and politely.  Be very respectful in your tone and you may need to speak slowly for older generations.  The best gift is a box of Indian sweets, fruit, or something simple from your home.

If you visit a New Indian, you are likely to find them living in a nuclear family with their children.  Check to see if they have shoes on or not.  You can take a much more relaxed tone with them in your speech and actions.  For gifts, you can bring a nice piece of home decor, music you enjoy, a box of foreign chocolate, or maybe even wine.  (You would never assume to bring alcohol to a Classic Indian household even if you had some drinks with him at a bar earlier.  Brining alcohol into the home can still be taboo and you don’t want to get anyone in trouble.)

If you visit a Wealthy Indian, it might be an extended family again, but they will also have a fleet of nice cars in the garage. Again, check for shoes, but they may be very used to foreign guests and won’t mind either way.  Some foreign whisky or large flower bouquet might make a nice gift (check first to see if they are teetotalers).

Different groups, different environments, different rules.

Mixing Classes

As mentioned, many of the people you will come to know may straddle these categories.  The largest area of transition is between the Classic Indian and the New Indian.  Many families are making that transition now, which provides the film industries with an endless amount of dramatic storylines.   Unfortunately, Majority Indians often make up a whole sub-country whose interactions with the rest of India are quite limited.

Despite there being a lot of overlap, each group is very distinct and you will find it fairly easy to categorize the people you meet.

Aside from rules about visiting a home, giving gifts, and alcohol, the economic class of an Indian can affect:

  • Small Talk Topics
  • What their weddings look like
  • What clothes they like to wear
  • What food they like to eat
  • What kind of leadership style they prefer in the office
  • The kind of movies they watch

 

More Indias here

Photo Credit: rabanito on Flickr

Neil Miller October 8, 2013 Filed Under: #IndiasNotIndia, #ThinSkinned, Book Reviews

The Argumentative Indian

 Argumentative Indian

Penguin, 2005.

The Argumentative Indian is a great read for those interested in a more critical and deeper look at modern India.  Amartya Sen is a Nobel Prize winner in Economics in 1998 and a professor at Harvard.  His writing is obviously enlightened, but he writes with a passion for his home country that is directed at important contemporary issues.

The book consists of 16 different essays written by Sen over several years.  The essays range in topic from defining and defending Indian secularism, taking a critical look at the Hindutva movement, examining the Indian diaspora, and discussing gender challenges in modern India.  After reading this book, you will have a great broad perspective of the most important issues that dominate much of present-day India.

Here are a few key concepts that I got from this book:

  • The unique Indian view of defining secularism as being neutral to all religions as opposed to prohibiting religious expressions in the public realm
  • A repeated call for outsiders to understand that one’s religion is more about community identity than personal religious beliefs. #IndiasNotIndia
  • A celebration of India’s historic rulers, particularly Akbar.  Akbar comes up several times in the book, especially for his attempts at treating all religions equally and creating a religiously neutral government.
  • The deep historical contributions made by early Indian scientists which were far in advance of their western counterparts (like Aryabhata)
  • Sen’s interpretation of the #ThinSkinned Indian as being put down by ignorant English writers and bureaucrats.  He says that India was driven to settle on “spirituality” as an area of authority because they were told their achievements in other realms were largely inconsequential. (Sen is a thorough secularist and atheist if you couldn’t guess.)

Sen, who himself is a Bengali, dedicates one essay each to two of West Bengal’s most well-known creators: Rabindranath Tagore and Satyajit Ray.  Tagore is perhaps India’s most celebrated poet and the author of the Indian national anthem.  Satyajit Ray is a filmmaker whose films still carry a lot of power and influence.  Anyone interacting with Bengalis would benefit from these short introductions to two incredible men.

The Argumentative India probably should not be the very first book you read about India, but it is well worth the time.  Slightly academic, but very practical, this book will help you dig deeper in your understanding of India.

Who would like it: People with a basic understanding and experience with India.

 

Buy the Argumentative Indian on  Amazon.in, Amazon.com, or Kindle

Guest September 21, 2013 Filed Under: #ChaosBeatsLogic, Daily Living

Fighting Mold

Fighting mold spiritchasa

Our first home had a lovely little balcony on it which peeks out to the ocean just over the vacant lot filled with trash.  Honestly, it was a really nice feature of the home and I wish we utilized it more.  One reason we don’t is that there are very few months out of the year when a person can reasonably sit outside and not sweat all the time. However the second reason is that there was an ever-present mold problem.

The balcony was made of red hexagon bricks.  No matter how much I swept or tried to keep it clean, there was always some black colored mold that grew on the tiles.  The only way I knew how to get rid of it was to take some cleaner and go out there and scrub the daylights out of.  The first time I did it, I had a good I’m-taking-care-of-my-home feel.  However, when the mold came back a few weeks later, I was not so happy.

For the next few years I would go back and forth, cleaning, scrubbing, and then watching it all grow back again.  I started to lose hope, but when my son started wanting to go out there on his own, I was renewed with a vigor to keep it clean.  That motivation lasted for a while, but I knew it was still a never-ending battle that I wasn’t excited about.  Scrub, then more mold.  There was no hope.

Our flat society had decided to paint the exterior walls of our building.  The painters worked for a few weeks, painting all the walls white (literally with nothing more than 4 inch paintbrushes).  Then they started doing some of the railings and outside doors too.  One day, I came home and my wife slowly lead me to the balcony.  The painters had put a fresh coat of red paint over all the moldy bricks that made up the balcony floor.

It was one of the best days I’ve ever had in India.

#GiveIn

Photo Credit: spiritchasa on Flickr

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