Perhaps your independent, autonomous spirit won’t allow you to rely on the many transportation systems set up for you in India. If you must get somewhere on your own terms, here are four options:
Walking
By far, the most common self-propelled way to get around is walking. If you stay inside air-conditioned cars, buses, and airplanes, you will miss a lot of this country. Only by walking can you get a real feel of what India is like. A road will seem extremely different to you when you walk it as opposed to riding in a car.
When it is the best idea:
- If you have no money
- If you know you are going only a small distance and it is not ridiculously hot
- There were many times when I think, it looks like, probably, this store is just down this road. Twenty minutes later, my wife was not smiling at me as the sweat poured down her face.
- If there is a huge traffic jam
- There have been a select few times when getting out of the auto and walking down the street got me to my final destination faster than waiting it out. However, this decision has been a mistake more times than it has paid off.
- If you are in a very crowded area or a one way street and don’t know exactly where you are going
- If I’m going to a heavily congested area I don’t know well, I often park the car somewhere nearby and then find the place much more easily on foot.
Hazards:
- Pedestrians are not necessarily targets, but drivers are not going to work really hard to avoid hitting you.
- You can easily spot a new foreigner because they are walking back home carrying groceries at 3pm in the afternoon in May. Stay indoors during the peak heat times and avoid being outside, especially without water. You know you can get your groceries delivered to your door, right?
- There are sidewalks, but they are usually only clear for about 6 feet before a shop or a tree forces you back on the road.
- Keep your eyes up, but look down enough to make sure you don’t step in anything you may later regret.
- Don’t step in anything wet, especially if it has not rained in a while.
Rules of the Road:
- Never, ever cross a road when there is a bus or water tanker coming. Ever.
- When crossing a road, stick your hand out toward the oncoming traffic. I have no idea why this makes people slow down for you, but it does work.
- Don’t hesitate while crossing a road; just keep going, and a path will open up.
- Wear lightweight clothes if you will be out for a long time. You can bring water, or buy it from the shops on the road.
*Hitchhiking both long and short distances is possible in India. I have no experience in it, so I can’t give much advice other than to be very cautious on long trips especially.
Cycle (bicycle)
Commuting by bicycle is not common at all, since they mainly are only used by those who can’t afford a motorcycle. There is an increasing interest in cycling as a form of exercise, but not for regular trips. If you ride a regular bicycle around the city for errands, you will be very strange.
When it is best:
- As long as you are ok with the “strange” thing, there are a lot of great uses for a bicycle for short trips. You always need to run to the corner store to get some coffee for unexpected guests or to quickly top off your mobile. Most convenient things seem to be located at a distance too far to walk and too short to drive.
Hazards:
- Bicycles are only slightly higher up the food chain than pedestrians, and you should not expect any motorcycle, car, truck, or bus to move for you.
- Indian road conditions mean you should be prepared for fixing a puncture. However, there are many roadside stalls that can offer their assistance.
Rules of the Road
- Helmets are optional but advisable.
- It is socially acceptable for you to go the wrong way on a one-way street on a bicycle, but that doesn’t mean you won’t get hit.
- Avoid main roads as much as possible.
Motorcycle/Scooter
The motorcycle (aka “bike”) or scooter (collectively called two-wheelers) is the middle class answer to the bicycle. These “two-wheelers” are everywhere and outsell cars by at least four times. They might be the toy of a wealthy businessman, the macho display for a young college student, the middle-class family vehicle, or the symbol of a woman’s freedom.
When it is the best idea:
- If you commute medium distances a lot
- If you are on a holiday and want to ride around
- If you live in a climate that doesn’t melt the skin off your body
How to get one:
- To buy and register a new bike/scooter, you will need to show a Residence Permit from registering at the FRRO.
- Used two-wheelers will already be registered, but you need to get the registration put in your name.
- You will need to have insurance if you buy a two-wheeler.
- You can also rent bikes for short durations.
- If you are on a short term visa, an International Driver’s License is acceptable. If you are on a long-term license, you will need an Indian Driver’s license. This will require a Residence Permit or similar proof of residence, and ID proof. You may have to take a written test and/or a driving test, which will likely involve you doing a figure-eight on the bike/scooter.
Hazards:
- Again, the motorcycle is only slightly above a bicycle on the food chain. No one will bother checking for you before pulling out or changing lanes. But now, you are traveling at a much higher speed.
- Police often will set up check-points where they pull over every young man on a motorcycle to check his papers. Even if you are a foreigner, you will be pulled over.
Rules of the road:
- Helmets are compulsory, although not everyone obeys this rule. You should.
- Just be careful, ok?
Car
You can purchase your own car. This is the ultimate option in being able to travel just about anywhere on your own terms in relative comfort. In these tips, I am assuming that you either have a driver (very affordable), or regularly use a call driver (also affordable).
When it is the best idea:
- If you are planning on being in India for at least a year
- If your company will pay for it
- If you have a family with young children
How to get one:
- The rules are similar to two-wheelers. A new one will require registration, which can take some time. A used one is simpler.
- Same rules apply regarding licenses and insurance.
- When buying a car, remember that larger cars will have a hard time driving around congested parts of the city and fitting into parking spaces.
- Most cars are manual transmission; there are a few automatic versions, but they will be more expensive.
- Both diesel and petrol versions are available for most models. Diesel models are more expensive, but the price of diesel is subsidized at a lower rate.
Hazards:
- Your car will get dents and scratches, and you will not be able to prevent this.
- Having a driver can be a great asset, as he will be able to help you carry things into your home and will wash the car regularly. However, you are also subject to his schedule in case he gets sick, is late, or needs to take leave. It is good to have the number for a call driver service for these situations.
Rules of the Road:
- A car is pretty high on the traffic food chain and will have an easier time getting around. As a passenger, you do not need to worry about anything except making your driver nervous by stepping on the imaginary brake pedal in your seat.
Ok, if you are actually serious about driving yourself around India, the next post will be on the unwritten rules of driving in India. Don’t miss it, but be warned that it is not for the faint of heart.
DH says
Awesome picture of that car straddling the lane marker. I have seen people doing that many times in India. What’s up with that?
Neil Miller says
Ha, I didn’t even notice when I first saw the picture. Lane markers are only suggestions here. Some people follow them, but most don’t and it is not enforced.